Exposure Therapy 5.12
Approach:
– Hike or climb to the top of Fox Tower, locate the anchor and rap down to Ringtail Ledge.
– Climb Head Fox. Continue up past two anchors then left to the Ringtail Ledge.
Note:
The Ringtail Ledge anchor needs either fingersized gear (0.75 and down) or large gear in the back (#3 or #4)
Variation: Boulder Problem to The Roost Ledge
5.11- (V3), 5m
**Ringtail**
Build a gear belay on the ledge and climb the sharp finger crack pods approximately 15 feet to The Roost Ledge. It is possible to lower back down from here.
Gear:
(2) Quickdraws for top anchors
Finger sized pieces
#3 or #4 helps for an anchor.
Pitch 1:
5.12, 30m
Climb the Ringtail boulder problem to The Roost Ledge. There is a two good anchors there for easy retreat. Stem the overhung dihedral with good gear to a anchor on the left face. Continue up through a powerful undercling traverse up, left, and around the corner. After turning the corner, the angle eases off, and the major difficulty ends. Place a lot of gear for the follower! Belay at anchor.
Note:
Do not attempt this route unless the follower knows how to jumar traverses! The follower may end up in space if they fall.
Gear:
Many small cams and nuts. Quickdraws for fixed nuts
Pitch 2:
5.10, 20m
Climb up and left placing good gear for you and the follower. Place gear high above the vertical crack, climb back to a good stance, and sky walk left around a bulge and hope for jugs. Belay on the anchor for Pink Adrenaline.
Gear:
Single rack to 3″
***P2 Variation: Up the steep crack***
5.12+, 20m
Approach by either climbing Vision Quest or by rappelling in from the top. If rappelling from the top, bring a light rack of cams to stay close to the wall. This is the most airy climb at Hueco! The anchor takes #2, #1, 0.75 size cams.
Retreat:
Either climb P2 of Vision Quest or rappel to the ground with (2) 70m ropes.
Gear:
(2) Quickdraws
(2) BD 2
(1) BD 4
(2) BD 0.75
(2) BD 1
Slings for the Anchor
Bail options:
– (2) raps from The Roost to Buttless Goulies anchor and fixed nut with (1) 70m rope
– (1) 70m Rap from the midway anchor to the ground with (2) 70m ropes
