FA: 3/8/2023 – Nate Vince & Ross Andrea

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ATTENTION: 09/23 – Two climbers – bailed on the last pitch of Texas Long Route. Due to a bee attack. One was stung several times on the face but is in good condition. Bees will most likely remain in the location until the first cold snap. Spread the word.

P1: “Cave Entrance”

Variation: “The 4-Dimensional Time Tunnel” (5.8) represents the first three pitches of the route and is a unique experience requiring some large trad gear, a headlamp, and an open mind.

5.6, 30m. From Lunch Rock walk to the entrance of Cueva De Leon. A tree with a long branch is welcoming you. Go past the branch and start up the easy corner on the right to a large ledge. Grab your head lamp and cut straight into the mountain through a tight chimney that winds around to a wild chockstone belay. You have been transported to another dimension.

P2: “Bombay Bongo”

The deceiving 2nd Pitch

Nate unlocking P2

Ross placing wide gear high on P2

5.8, 10m. From the belay, climb up and left on face holds to the exposed bomb bay chimney. Place wide gear high and traverse past a hueco with a thin flake that sounds like a drum. Feel free to gently express yourself. Keep heading left to a nice ledge with a sling belay.

P3: “The Time Tunnel “

Stemming through P3 “The Time Tunnel”

5.7, 30m. Stem down the dark hallway toward the light looking for a perfect protectable handrail crack on the left. It seems like an eternity since you last saw the sun. Chimney sideways to a large chockstone ledge with a sling belay.

P4: “The Scramble”

3rd class, 30m. Scramble up blocks then down a short chimney, walk through the window to a sunny ledge with a view of the Cakewalk Wall. Welcome to the sun.

P5: “Above Flake Roof”

5.8, 40m. The climbing style takes a drastic change to delicate face, traversing right and down past intermittent cracks. Look for good gear and a anchor to the belay anchors of Flake Roof.

P6: “The Boulder Problem”

5.10, 30m. Continue right through dark crimps and thin, protectable, horizontal cracks to a tricky downclimb boulder problem around the corner (crux) to the Hourglass. Keep climbing down the low angle crack to a nice ledge. Build an anchor in the crack system. If you enjoyed that pitch you have passed the first test and now are ready to continue on the long and winding road ahead.

P7: “Cakewalk Wall”

5.6, 30m. Do an interesting move up and around to jugs. Climb the Cakewalk Wall right and slightly down to find the P1 anchors for Cakewalk. Look for creative gear: small cams in shallow cracks, large cams in huecos, thread throughs, etc.

P8: “Bitchin”

5.8, 20m. Traverse right and step down with good face holds to Bitchin Chimney (5.8). Climb Bitchin Chimney with good gear, pass the first anchor, go right around the tree, and belay at the second anchor below Busted. CAREFUL! Sometimes an owl hangs out in the bush and ledges above.

P9: “Busted”

5.9, 20m. Climb up Busted to the anchor.

P10: “Paul Bunyan Looking for Purple Microdot “

5.8, 50m. Walk down and right to the top of the Paul Bunyan Chimney. Do a funky step over move across the chimney avoiding the cactus (5.6 R). Climb up and clip the anchor of P2 on All the Nasties (this is an optional belay). Climb down, following the crack right to a good stance. Do an exposed step right to a run-out face and look for anchors spaced about 5 feet apart vertically. This is Purple Microdot. Equalize the two anchors and belay here.

P11: “Loose Lunacy”

5.10- R, 40m. Traverse up and right across loose flakes with bad pro (5.8 R) to a bomber #2 BD placement high in a vertical crack. This section will clean up nicely with more traffic, but it is a very run-out section on bad rock. Cut hard right to good gear then climb down P2 of Lunacy placing gear for the follower. Belay on the unique and aesthetic Lunacy Ledge on anchors.

P12: “Lunatic Step-up”

5.6 R, 20m. Do a fun step up move off the belay, look for two anchors, and head right and down on low angle exposed slab to the anchor for Desperado.

P13: “Nate’s Descent”

5.10+, 20m. Clip the anchor with a long runner and climb down to a small ledge. Try not to look down. Channel a primal desire for adventure and yell “Desperado!” before jumping across the chasm to a small ledge. Clip the first anchor on Desperado and climb down the crack past several thought provoking sections, placing good gear for the follower. Do a fun little slab move to a fixed anchor. This is the physical crux of the climb.

P14: “Psychological Slabs”

5.8+ R, 40m. Although the end is in sight there is an element of fear both climbers must first overcome. Climb down the crack about 10 feet then traverse up past 2 anchors to the Uriah’s Heap Block. Take a deep breath. Keep traversing right past two anchors on Uriah’s Heap. The rock will suddenly change from delicate thin slab to the dark brown chunky Sea of Holes rock. Climb to the P1 anchors of Sea of Holes. This is the most run-out pitch for both the leader and follower. The psychological crux.

P15: “Easier Than It Looks”

5.7 R, 40m. Traverse right and down to step across Tree Route. Climb low angle terrain and romp up past the anchor to the P1 anchor of Indecent Exposure. WATCH FOR BEES.

P16: “Indecent Exposure Extended”

5.9+, 50m. Climb the wild P2 of Indecent Exposure. Keep going right looking for an anchor below tan huecos and head to the Optical Promise crack (this is an optional gear belay). Trend up and right on dark face holds and look for a right-leaning crack that leads to the anchor for Pink Adrenaline. Take a moment to look out at horizon and enjoy the satisfaction of completing the longest climb in Texas!

Final Scramble: 3rd class, to the summit (10m).

Total Climbing Base to Summit:

Approximately 500m (1640 feet)

Nate Vince & Ross Andrea

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