Cueva de Leon Routes
Mountain: North
Location: Front Side
Notes: Shady summer spot
The first three pitches to The Texas Long Route are located in Cueva de Leon. Not only is this the classic beginning to The Texas Long Route the cave also has excellent summer lines. Quality top ropes exist below each belay station on all three pitches listed below.
A long, narrow passage forms the Cueva de Leon cave located on North mountain near the Lunch Rocks. A trail leads from the front side road into the cave.
The cave usually provides shelter from the wind and is a great shady spot for the summer.
P1 – Entrance Tunnel Bail
5.6, 30m. From Lunch Rock walk to the entrance of Cueva De Leon. A tree with a long branch is welcoming you. Go past the branch and start up the easy corner on the right to a large ledge. Grab your head lamp and cut straight into the mountain through a tight chimney that winds around to a wild chockstone belay. You have been transported to another dimension. Lead this first pitch and rap off the P1 belay station to set up the following top rope.
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Kevin Gallagher – Rolex 5.10
ROLEX 5.10 TR
Begin on ground level left of Vestibule the BP. Use a base small stone leaning on the wall to gain the slab. Climb the slab veering left (following the rope) up into the P1 Entrance Tunnel. Gear – Camalot #4, Camalot #5 with 24 inch runners.
Variation 5.11: Take on the overhung head-wall on difficult features. Finish in the tunnel.
P2 – 4th Dimension Bail
5.8, 10m. From the belay, climb up and left on face holds to the exposed bomb bay chimney. Place wide gear high and traverse past a hueco with a thin flake that sounds like a drum. Feel free to gently express yourself. Keep heading left to a nice ledge with a sling belay. Lead the first and second pitches and rap off the P2 belay station to set up the following top rope.
PRIDE ARETE 5.11 TR
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P3 – Time Tunnel Bail
P3 – 5.7, 30m. Stem down the dark hallway toward the light looking for a perfect protectable handrail crack on the left. It seems like an eternity since you last saw the sun. Chimney sideways to a large chockstone ledge with a sling belay. Lead the first, second and third pitch and rap off the P3 belay station to set up the following top rope.
THE GHOST AND THE DARKNESS 5.12 TR
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ADDITIONAL ROUTES
Luther 5.11
Merlin 5.10- off width crack to the right of Luther
Project – ribbon and streaked section across from The Pride Arete
